Biodynamics, for many, is merely a marketing tool. For others, it represents a practical technique for producing fine wine or an ecological goal to be attained. But to Zeno Zignoli, the iconic winemaker at Monte dei Ragni, producing cult Amarone and Valpolicella Ripasso, biodynamics “shouldn’t be an arrival point – it should be a departure point.”
Zeno transcends the realms of organics and biodynamics, embracing various agronomic practices designed to ensure ecological integrity and restore soil equilibrium. He follows the teachings of Brazilian agronomist Jairo Restrepo Rivera, implementing a homeopathic regimen of soil regeneration by cultivating dozens of cover crops and vegetables to generate soil and vine health. Zeno’s dedication to vineyard biodiversity is evident in his permaculture practices: raising goats and sheep alongside his vineyards, plowing with a horse, and maintaining structures to house birds and honeybees. He integrates olive groves, cherry orchards, corn, wheat, and grains into his vineyard parcels, harnessing natural and traditional means to encourage the growth of microorganisms, increase resistance to disease and pests, balance soil pH, and fortify the vineyard against frost and drought.
The 7-hectare Monte dei Ragni is situated on steep slopes (200 meters above sea level) above the picturesque village of Fumane, within the Valpolicella Classico zone of Verona. Of this, only about 2 hectares are planted with vines of Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, Molinara, and Osoleta, most of which are trained in the pergola system. Planted on soils of limestone and grey marl, the vines average 35 years old, with many over 80 years old. The remainder of the estate is devoted to permaculture, including animal husbandry, vegetable and grain crops, and olive and fruit orchards. Zeno succinctly declares: “Monoculture is a disaster! That’s why all the plants are sick now.”
Traditionally, Amarone was made from juice extracted from grapes that underwent a 3 to 4 months drying process (appassimento) on wooden racks (arele) in wind-blown lofts called fruttai. The dried grapes were then slowly fermented at ambient temperatures and aged in Slavonian oak casks for 4 to 6 years. Modern production, in contrast, typically uses temperature and humidity-controlled drying facilities, thermos-regulated stainless steel tanks for fermentation, and French oak barriques for aging.
Valpolicella Ripasso, in turn, was traditionally made by adding the Amarone-leftover grape skins to Valpolicella wine, then refermented and aged in casks for 1 to 2 years. Today, it is made by pumping simple Valpolicella wines over the used grape skins, followed by controlled refermentation for 1 to 2 weeks and aging in French oak barriques for 12-18 months.
Zeno Zignoli relies entirely on manual processes and natural conditions. For Amarone, which is made only in years when weather conditions are right, he ties grape clusters to vertical canvas nets to dry in an air-ventilated attic for 2 to 4 months, depending on the vintage and weather conditions. He then crushes the dried grapes in open wood casks and ferments over ambient yeasts for 3 to 4 weeks. Zeno prefers Amarone without residual sugar, so he picks early to restrain potential alcohol and ferments to dry. The Amarone is then raised in tonneaux for 4-6 years, followed by an additional 2-3 years of aging in the bottle.
Zeno’s Valpolicella Ripasso is made only in years when Amarone is produced. The Ripasso is crafted from destemmed grapes that are crushed and fermented for around two weeks in open casks, after which Amarone skins are added and the mixture is re-fermented. The Ripasso is then aged 2-4 years in tonneaux, followed by an additional 1-2 years in the bottle.
Monte dei Ragni produces only 300-500 cases of wine per year, of which a mere 700 bottles reach the US market. Even in Veneto, Monte dei Ragni wines are nearly impossible to find. This exclusivity, combined with Zeno Zignoli’s unwavering commitment to natural agriculture and winemaking methods, makes these wines true “unicorns”, highly sought after by connoisseurs worldwide.
