The Aube, also known as the Côte des Bar, is a sub-region of Champagne located in the southern part of the appellation. It was historically distinct from and, in former times, generally less prestigious than its rivals in the Montagne de Reims and the Côte des Blancs. The Grandes Marques, headquatered in Reims and Epernay, were heavily influenced by the international trade demands of Dutch and German owners, whereas the family-owned vineyards of the Aube relied more on Frewnch domestic trade. Situated halfway between Reims and Beaune, the Aube bears greater affinity to Burgundy than to the remainder of Champagne in terms of both philosophy and winemaking technique. The Aube is characterized by its rolling hills, diverse terroir, and a predominance of Pinot Noir. The Kimmeridgian limestone soils, similar to those found in Chablis, provide a unique mineral quality to the wines. The region’s climate is slightly warmer than the northern parts of Champagne, contributing to a fuller ripening of grapes, which results in champagnes with richness and depth.
The Gerbais family have been in the forefront of exciting winemaking in the Aube for three generations. With an 18-hectare estate lying on the slopes of the Ource Valley in the village of Celles-sur-Ource, the grapes benefit from a unique river valley microclimate. Soils of limestone marl, rich in fossilized ammonites, form the Kimmeridgian Ridge where the domaine’s vineyards produce uniquely profound wines. The estate has 10 hectares of Pinot Noir, 4 hectares of Chardonnay, and 4 hectares of Pinot Blanc. Averaging 30 years of age, the vines are planted at a density of 8-10,000, and pruned using the Chablis method. Biodiversity is encouraged through cover cropping, and no chemical herbicides or pesticides are used. The focus is on nurturing the soil and vines to ensure they are resilient and capable of producing high-quality grapes. Composting, natural treatments, and manual labor are integral to their approach, ensuring that the vineyard maintains its vitality and balance. The Domaine employs biodynamic practices and has met the organic viticulture standards of Ampelos since 1996.
The third generation Gerbais, Aurélien, is now at the helm. He embraces a terroir-driven philosophy and embraces winemaking innovation. The vineyards undergo seléction parcelaire, as the Domaine carefully identifies particular parcels of vines within the vineyards and vinifies separately the fruit within each such plot before composing the final blends. The grapes are harvested carefully by hand and crushed in a traditional Coquard press. After a brief period of débourbage at a controlled, cool 12° C., alcoholic fermentation is induced in stainless steel tank through select organic yeasts. The wine then, still in tank, naturally passes through malolactic fermentation. For his dosage, Aurélien Gerbais uses MCR (Mout Concentré Rectifié ), a choice that aligns with his philosophy of maintaining the purity and authenticity of Gerbais champagnes. MCR, being derived from grapes, integrates more seamlessly with the base wine compared to traditional sugar solutions, thus preserving the wine’s natural character and enhancing its overall balance and finesse.
