Philippe Pacalet, a luminary in the world of natural winemaking, paradoxically dislikes being categorized as such. “I have no interest whatsoever in making natural wines. I want only to make good wines”. And that he most certainly does!
With a lineage deeply entrenched in viticulture, Pacalet was born into a family of winemakers in the Beaujolais region, and practically raised among the vines. His uncle, Marcel Lapierre, a pioneer of natural wine in Beaujolais, played a significant role in shaping Pacalet’s winemaking philosophy.
Pacalet’s formal education in oenology and viticulture took place at the University of Dijon, one of the most prestigious institutions for viticultural studies. where he gained a robust technical foundation that would underpin his innovative winemaking techniques. His education provided him with a comprehensive understanding of both traditional and modern viticultural practices, allowing him to blend academic knowledge with practical skills.
After completing his studies, Pacalet’s professional journey took a significant turn when he began working with the legendary Henri Jayer in Vosne-Romanée, Burgundy. Jayer, a staunch advocate of non-interventionist winemaking, profoundly influenced Pacalet’s approach, emphasizing the importance of terroir and the minimal use of chemicals.
Following his formative experience with Jayer, Pacalet further honed his skills at Domaine Leroy and Domaine Prieuré-Roch. At Domaine Leroy, under the tutelage of Lalou Bize-Leroy, he learned the intricacies of biodynamic farming and natural winemaking. Lalou Bize-Leroy, a visionary in the world of biodynamic viticulture, reinforced Pacalet’s belief in the power of nature and the importance of minimal intervention. At Domaine Prieuré-Roch, Pacalet continued to refine his techniques, gaining invaluable experience in producing wines that express purity and elegance. His tenure at these esteemed domaines solidified his commitment to natural winemaking and laid the groundwork for his future endeavors.
Philippe Pacalet sources grapes from some of the most prestigious appellations in Burgundy, including Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, Nuits-Saint-Georges, and Puligny-Montrachet. Pacalet does not own the vineyards but instead works closely with growers who adhere to his stringent standards of organic and biodynamic farming.
Philippe Pacalet is a proponent of organic and biodynamic viticulture. He eschews synthetic chemicals, opting instead for organic treatments to maintain vine health and soil vitality. Cover crops are planted to enhance biodiversity and soil structure, while compost preparations are used to nourish the soil. Pacalet practices meticulous canopy management to ensure optimal sunlight exposure and air circulation, reducing the risk of disease and promoting even ripening of the grapes. Harvesting is done by hand, ensuring that only the healthiest, ripest grapes are selected. This labor-intensive approach reflects Pacalet’s commitment to quality and respect for the environment.
In the cellar, Philippe Pacalet’s approach is defined by minimal intervention. His winemaking philosophy centers on allowing the natural characteristics of the grapes and the terroir to shine through. Pacalet employs native yeasts for fermentation, which occurs in open-top wooden fermenters. He practices whole-cluster fermentation for his red wines, a technique that enhances aromatic complexity and adds a distinctive texture to the wines.
Pacalet avoids the use of sulfur dioxide during fermentation, relying on the natural stability of the wine. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally, adding softness and complexity to the wines. For aging, Pacalet uses a mix of new and old French oak barrels, carefully selected to avoid overpowering the delicate nuances of the wine with excessive oak influence.
The aging period varies depending on the wine and the vintage but generally ranges from 12 to 18 months. During this time, the wines are racked gently to separate the lees, and they undergo minimal filtration before bottling. This careful handling ensures that the wines retain their purity, freshness, and expression of terroir.