The defining characteristic of the Champagne wine region is its chalky Kimmeridgean limestone, which imparts a distinctive taste to champagne, setting it apart from all other sparkling wines. Many connoisseurs argue that Blanc de Blancs champagne represents the pinnacle of this wine style, with its finest expressions found in the Côte des Blancs, particularly in Avize and Oger.
Among the strongest advocates of this uncompromising style of champagne was Patrick Le Brun. His Domaine, LeBrun Servenay, crafts a wine that remains true to tradition: it features restrained fruit ripeness, is made using a reductive method (minimizing exposure to oxygen), fermented in stainless steel tanks (without any wood), and undergoes no malolactic fermentation. Although Patrick passed prematurely and tragically, his legacy is ably continued by his son.
A new wave, notably led by Jacques Selosse, champions a very different approach to champagne. They promote an oxidative style, with overripe fruit, fermentation in wood, and full malolactic conversion. While these smooth and creamy wines can be very compelling, they are fundamentally different from the crisp, taut, and vibrant wines that Patrick defended.
LeBrun Servenay comprises 7.5 hectares of vineyards in the heart of the Côte des Blancs, including Avize, Cramant, and Oger. There is a very high percentage of old vine fruit in their wine, averaging 40 years for the non-vintage and 70 years for the vintage. All wines are vinified, parcel by parcel, in small 30hL stainless steel vats to enhance minerality. The champagne is fermented and aged solely in thermos-regulated stainless steel tanks and entirely without wood barrels. To block malolactic conversion, the tanks are kept cool, and the winery is kept free from lactic acid bacteria. When appropriate, small but judicious amounts of sulfur are added. The bottles are hand-riddled.
