The vineyards of Saint-Pourçain, which once sprawled across thousands of hectares, have greatly diminished due to phylloxera and shifts in agricultural focus. Today, only a few hundred hectares are cultivated with vines, situated in a small area about 150 km from Burgundy. The main grape varieties still grown include Pinot Noir, Gamay, and Chardonnay. However, it is the local grape, Tressalier—known as Sacy in Burgundy where it is permitted but rare—that holds the most promise for revitalizing the region’s wine production.
Domaine des Bérïoles, a seven hectare family estate located in the village of Cesset in the Auvergne. The domaine focuses on a few key grape varieties—Tressalier (Sacy), Chardonnay, Gamay, and Pinot Noir. Each wine is crafted to highlight the varietal characteristics, with Tressalier being particularly notable for its rarity and its role as a local specialty that the domaine has championed. Jean Teissèdre personally manages the vineyards and winemaking operations, which are certified organic and incorporate many biodynamic practices.
The domaine’s location near the Allier River contributes to a distinct microclimate and soil composition that deeply influence the flavor profile of the wines. The soils, a mix of clay, limestone, and granite, impart minerality and complexity.
The winemaking process at Domaine des Bérïoles is characterized by minimal intervention. Techniques like using indigenous yeasts for fermentation, blocking malolactic fermentation in white wines to preserve acidity, and aging in cement tanks all work to ensure that the inherent qualities of the grapes are showcased in every bottle. The red wines, made from completely destemmed Pinot Noir and Gamay, are cold macerated and fermented with native yeasts in tronconic vats. These wines undergo gentle punch downs and pumping over, and are racked by gravity and bottled without fining, preserving the purest expression of the fruit and terroir.
Wines from Domaine des Bérïoles are noted for their elegance and purity, often featuring crisp acidity, clear fruit flavors, and a clean finish. They are crafted to reflect the essence of Saint-Pourçain’s terroir, making them distinctive and sought after by those who appreciate nuanced, terroir-focused wines.
