Burgundy stands out among wine regions for its intricate tapestry of small vineyards, each possessing unique characteristics and individual ownership. However, an exceptional anomaly within this pattern is found in the Domaine des Épeneaux and its proprietor, Comte Armand. Spanning 10.12 hectares, the Domaine encompasses a treasure within its holdings – the remarkable 5-hectare monopole vineyard of Clos des Épeneaux. This vineyard not only ranks as one of Burgundy’s largest Premier Cru sites but also holds the distinction of remaining under singular ownership since pre-Revolutionary times.
Despite its natural and historical advantages, the Clos des Épeneaux once struggled to realize its full potential, with its wines languishing in relative mediocrity well into the 1960s, often sold off to négociants. However, in 1985, Comte Armand made a pivotal decision by entrusting the reins to a young and promising talent: 29-year-old Pascal Marchand, a Canadian poet-turned-winemaker. Over the ensuing thirteen years, Pascal elevated the Domaine’s wines to the forefront of Burgundy’s elite. Building upon this success, Comte Armand began expanding and revitalizing the Domaine des Épeneaux in 1994, gradually annexing additional vineyards, including parcels in Pommard, Volnay, and Auxey-Duresses. The Domaine proudly adheres to organic viticulture and winemaking practices, certified by Ecocert, and strictly follows biodynamic principles.
In 1989, Pascal Marchand passed the baton to another exceptionally gifted winemaker, Benjamin Leroux, who further enhanced the Domaine’s reputation. Leroux’s tenure saw a continued elevation of quality, setting a high standard for his successor. In 2016, Benjamin Leroux was succeeded by the talented Paul Zinetti, ushering in a new era of excellence. Today, Domaine des Épeneaux stands among the foremost Pinot Noir producers in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune.
While conventional wisdom in Burgundy extols the virtues of small vineyard parcels for producing terroir-specific wines, there is merit in considering the benefits of larger vineyards. Winemakers like Paul Zinetti, Benjamin Leroux, and Pascal Marchand emphasize the opportunities presented by working with a complex array of variables within a larger vineyard, likening it to composing a symphony rather than a sonata.
Eric Asimov aptly characterizes Burgundy as a “cascade of complications.” Despite the stereotypical criticism of Pommard wines as rustic and stolid, such descriptors fail to capture the essence of the Clos des Épeneaux, whose wines are distinguished by their robustness and structural integrity, offering an expressive bouquet of black cherries, spice, and minerality. With impressive concentration and a velvety finish, these wines exude class, grace, and elegance, challenging preconceptions and elevating Pommard to new heights.
