Burgundy stands out among wine regions for its intricate tapestry of small vineyards, each possessing unique characteristics and individual ownership. However, an exceptional anomaly within this pattern is found in the Domaine des Épeneaux and its proprietor, Comte Armand. Spanning 10.12 hectares, the Domaine encompasses a treasure within its holdings – the remarkable 5-hectare monopole vineyard of Clos des Épeneaux. This vineyard not only ranks as one of Burgundy’s largest Premier Cru sites but also holds the distinction of remaining under singular ownership since pre-Revolutionary times.
The soil in the Clos is ferruginous marl (mixture of clay and calcium carbonate) combined with plentiful limestone debris over a subsoil base of Argovian limestone. Not surprisingly, the thinner and rockier soils are found upslope (260 meters), where the soil depth can be only 20-30 cm; downslope (240 meters) soil depths increase to measure 60-80cm. The Clos enjoys a beneficial microclimate, with a favorable east-facing aspect that permits maximum exposure to the morning sun. The wall vitiates the damaging potential of strong winds while at the same time permitting gentle breezes to move out pockets cold air as well as to dry out moisture that could lead to rot. The vineyard also benefits from an underground stream as well as from the abundance of limestone scree integrated into the soil fostering good drainage. By family tradition, the spelling of “Epenots” was poetically changed to “Epeneaux” (the suffix “-eaux” in French means waters) in honor of the underground stream.
Despite its natural and historical advantages, the Clos des Épeneaux once struggled to realize its full potential, with its wines languishing in relative mediocrity well into the 1960s, often sold off to négociants. However, in 1985, Comte Armand made a pivotal decision by entrusting the reins to a young and promising talent: 29-year-old Pascal Marchand, a Canadian poet-turned-winemaker. Over the ensuing thirteen years, Pascal elevated the Domaine’s wines to the forefront of Burgundy’s elite. Building upon this success, Comte Armand began expanding and revitalizing the Domaine des Épeneaux in 1994, gradually annexing additional vineyards, including parcels in Pommard, Volnay, and Auxey-Duresses. The Domaine proudly adheres to organic viticulture and winemaking practices, certified by Ecocert, and strictly follows biodynamic principles.
In 1989, Pascal Marchand passed the baton to another exceptionally gifted winemaker, Benjamin Leroux, who further enhanced the Domaine’s reputation. Leroux’s tenure saw a continued elevation of quality, setting a high standard for his successor. In 2016, Benjamin Leroux was succeeded by the talented Paul Zinetti, ushering in a new era of excellence. Today, Domaine des Épeneaux stands among the foremost Pinot Noir producers in Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune.
Since the grapes mature at differing times within this large vineyard, several passes are required in order to pick the fruit from each block at optimal ripeness, and the harvest can take 8-10 days to complete. The vinification process for all four cuvees is essentially the same. After sorting, all the fruit from the Clos is completely de-stemmed and given a short pre-fermentation cold soak. Using indigenous yeasts, fermentation continues for about three weeks, after which there is a post-fermentation maceration of around a week. Fermentation is accompanied by remontage (pumping over) and pigeage (punching down), frequency being adjusted to the vintage. Fermentation temperature is regulated not to exceed 32°C; post maceration is kept at 28°C. Total cuvaison is limited to one lunar cycle of 28 days.
The wines are then racked into Betrange oak and aged for 20-22 months. The amount of new oak varies with the age of the vines, with young vines receiving only 0% versus 30% for the older vines. Wines from the different cuvees are carefully blended together to produce the final Clos des Epeneaux for each vintage. Any wine not used in the blend is bottled as Pommard 1er Cru and as Pommard villages.
While conventional wisdom in Burgundy extols the virtues of small vineyard parcels for producing terroir-specific wines, there is merit in considering the benefits of larger vineyards. Winemakers like Paul Zinetti, Benjamin Leroux, and Pascal Marchand emphasize the opportunities presented by working with a complex array of variables within a larger vineyard, likening it to composing a symphony rather than a sonata.
Eric Asimov aptly characterizes Burgundy as a “cascade of complications.” Despite the stereotypical criticism of Pommard wines as rustic and stolid, such descriptors fail to capture the essence of the Clos des Épeneaux, whose wines are distinguished by their robustness and structural integrity, offering an expressive bouquet of black cherries, spice, and minerality. With impressive concentration and a velvety finish, these wines exude class, grace, and elegance, challenging preconceptions and elevating Pommard to new heights.
